Loewe is celebrating its 180th anniversary, and creative directors Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are still getting their heads around such a long, rich, two-speed history. WWD’s Miles Socha, publishing his Loewe Spring 2027 review on 2 October 2026 under the headline “Something Old, Something New,” reports the duo framing the collection as “the idea of the old world and the new world coming together” — still staged in a characterless white box inside the fortified medieval Château de Vincennes on Paris’s eastern fringe. Elle’s Matthew Velasco, writing the same morning, calls it New England sportswear meeting Spanish drama. For Cover Issue’s runway desk on Saturday 3 October IST, Loewe SS27 is the clearest anniversary mash-up of the new Paris day: American autobiography injected into a Spanish leather house without fossilizing either.
Easing the bombast while keeping craft quiet
For their third show, Socha writes, McCollough and Hernandez eased up on bombastic and high-tech craftsmanship demonstrations while still quietly skiving leather — and conscripting a former Loewe Craft Prize finalist to create gauzy, striped dresses and shirts of glass beads with the look of wet beach towels. Beach references have become part of their zesty, more hot-blooded approach: high-waisted men’s trousers and women’s pencil skirts splayed open over the hips suggestively, like a scuba suit unzipped and hanging off the torso. Cycling caps, tech-y windbreakers, and gorpcore colors fed an outdoorsy vibe — perhaps a little too much so, Socha notes. Cover Issue files that tempered critique as WWD’s, not as invented shade.
Preppy America, basketball flappers, and the 1960 suede blazer
The American duo also wove in a low-key preppy vibe, Socha reports: polo shirts styled backwards, squishy boat shoes, chinos. Basketball jerseys — another pure American invention — were interpreted as tiered, chiffon neo-flapper dresses with tie-dye trim tinkling with tiny beads. “Our personal identities, our New England youth, our kind of ’90s spirit,” McCollough said, rattling off influences to mash up with Loewe’s roots in Spain’s baroque majesty. They noted the heritage brand, founded as a leather goods workshop, only made its first garment in 1960 — a suede blazer — which they reprised on the runway, zhushed to fit their sleek, of-the-now approach. Velasco’s Elle review adds the show-space note: designed with Casper Mueller Kneer Architects as a two-tiered amphitheater in the château courtyard, bringing the audience close, with men’s looks that called JFK Jr. to mind, Kangol hat and all.
Leather blousons, caramel suede, and a wardrobe proposition
Loewe remains a reliable resource for a sumptuous leather blouson, Socha writes — here toughened with a thick leather belt or softened with a scarf-like drape — plus newer archetypes like a long shirt-like coat, or is it a dress, in caramel-colored suede. Velasco flags suede overcoats with notched capris, chiffon evening dresses in jolting primary colors with basketball-jersey bodices, a roll-neck with vibrant orange short-shorts, and architecturally draped miniskirts opening the show that nod to exaggerated proportions Jonathan Anderson made synonymous with the brand. Spanish Baroque returns in silk ties printed with motifs from Spanish paintings and satin scarves whose florals flared from taleguilla-style pants; sashes and draped folds sometimes cinched with bungee cord for a sporty counterpoint. In show notes quoted by Elle, the designers call it a proposition for dressing: take the vision and craft, inject reality and character — proximity to the clothes, to living, and to their own autobiography. Socha hopes it will all gel next season; Cover Issue does not invent a verdict beyond that open WWD line.
How to wear Loewe SS27 old/new without a Vincennes ticket
Readers searching Loewe SS27 can extract a wearable brief. First, mash one Spanish leather or suede piece — blouson, caramel shirt-coat, or soft drape — with one American sportswear note: backward polo, chino, boat shoe, or cycling-cap attitude. Second, try a high-waist skirt or trouser with a controlled scuba-unzip hip reveal rather than full costume exposure. Third, if you want the basketball-flapper idea, pick chiffon tiering or beaded trim on one dress and keep the rest quieter. Fourth, use a thin red cord or sporty bungee as the modern cinch on a sculptural white or draped mini. Quiet ’90s hair and low-key prep beat full gorpcore layering for city translation. Credit Socha for anniversary framing and McCollough/Hernandez quotes; credit Velasco for amphitheater and JFK Jr. styling color.
Where this sits on Cover Issue’s Paris map
Batch 26 logged Balenciaga, Chloé, and Carven; Batch 25 logged Courrèges, Dries, and Tom Ford. Loewe SS27 is a different chapter: third outing for the Proenza alumni at a 180-year house, old world/new world as wardrobe, not Anderson-era high-tech max. Cross-link prior Loewe craft files when packaging PFW clusters, but keep McCollough-Hernandez autobiography distinct. Do not invent boardroom drama about Anderson at Dior beyond Socha’s published context that he now helms that house.
Search language for the desk
Primary: Loewe SS27. Secondary: Loewe McCollough Hernandez, Loewe 180th anniversary, Château de Vincennes runway, old world new world Loewe, Loewe basketball chiffon dress. The cover photograph is a real Dominique Maitre / WWD runway still of a sculptural Loewe SS27 look — full-bleed 16:9, no baked-in headline — because an anniversary mash-up demands a photographic silhouette, never a crest illustration.
A note on packaging
When packaging for Cover Issue RUNWAY on 3 October IST, lead with the 180th anniversary and old/new world quote to Socha, then secondary-link Elle’s sportswear-meets-Baroque checklist. Stay inside fashion news. Readers comparing this file to Batch 26’s Carven debut will feel a clear new angle: yesterday’s archive youth, today’s American-Spanish wardrobe proposition.